Where Are All the Savory NA Cocktails?

Zero-proof drinks are getting better every day. “Spirits” like Lyre’s and Seedlip were designed to mix up non-alcoholic cocktails that have body and nuance. RTDs like the St. Agrestis Phony Negroni and Ghia Le Spritz are balanced and complex. You can’t go to a nice restaurant or bar these days without seeing a few NA drinks that are often just as thoughtful as the full-proof ones. Yet, there’s one big issue still plaguing the non-alcoholic section: everything is sweet.

When I say sweet, I’m not talking about a virgin Mudslide. Even though the Negroni is considered a bitter drink, it still has a significant amount of sugar. There once was a time where I could have multiple bittersweet drinks in a sitting, but these days, my palate is burnt out after one, and I immediately move to the wine list after something like a Daiquiri or Margarita (two drinks that, when made correctly, are perfectly balanced, though sugar is still a crucial ingredient). These days I mostly reach for Martinis when I want a cocktail because I’m almost always craving something dry or savory.

I get why a dry NA drink doesn’t really work — that would basically just be seltzer water, maybe with citrus for added tartness. And from my experience tasting what’s currently on the market, mixing together non-alcoholic gin and vermouth to mimic a Martini is going to taste awful. That said, savory flavors are so bold that it seems like they could stand on their own to make a deeply complex non-alcoholic drink. So where are they?

The Best Non-Alcoholic Spirits for Dry January and Beyond

Each of these bottles offers real taste and mocktail (or even cocktail) versatility

I started thinking about this because I’m trying to drink a little less. But every time I scan the NA section of a cocktail menu looking to “zebra stripe” (that is, alternate boozy and non-boozy drinks), the handful of beverages on offer are full of fruit juices and syrups.

I’m not saying these drinks are bad, but out of all 60 menus I reviewed before writing this lament (and the many menus I’ve scanned during the past year), only two have NA cocktails that lean savory. I’m having trouble finding anything briny or vegetal, which is strange considering these flavors are top of mind in the cocktail world right now (shoutout to the occasional Bloody Mary made with an NA spirit).

People are ordering Dirty Martinis in droves, so I’m guessing there’s an untapped market for savory NA drinks. If any bartenders are reading this, let me know if you heed the call — I’ll be your first customer.